Missing in C-U: really great Fish ‘n Chips
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If what they say is true, I shouldn't be writing this now, and simultaneously missing what I would consider to be one of the finest experiences in all of my culinary adventures. Technically speaking, the Irish are mocked for their tastes in food; one only needs to spend a week in France to learn the general European opinion regarding eats in the U.K. and Ireland: shit.
But for me, I'd put going to a really great chipper in Dublin on the top of my list when it comes to dining out informally. The concept is so simple, and that's why it works so well: breaded cod, deep fried to a golden brown, served with thick-cut french fries — or as they call them over there, chips — all nestled perfectly in nothing more than a brown piece of wax paper, piping hot and ready to devour. Malt vinegar and salt are optional, but in my opinion, a must.

Leo Burdock's in Dublin is one of the more popular places to sample this extremely tasty and traditional Irish cuisine, and there is a damn good reason: it's simply perfect. The list of famous folks that have stopped in for a bite there is too long to list, though they do a good job of making sure that you know about at least some of them, including some that might surprise you:

Not surprisingly, U2 is listed at the top of that list. Evidently, they really actually love the band in Dublin. Like for real. No one has bad things to say about them. Perhaps it's because they still come in to local joints like Leo Burdock's like the rest of the city folk.
Don't be mistaken: it is a tourist trap to a degree. Situated just across the road from the 1,000-year-old Christ Church (one of the most memorable parts of Dublin), the shop is pretty much pumping it out constantly, which ensures fresh food each and every time. I know, because I went three times in three days. It's just that fucking good. Here we are, mowing down for the second time in four hours:
Another thing to note was the fact that they make their very own malt vinegar, and a side costs a pricey 1€50 Euro. But I wanted extra, so I dished it out. When they gave me an entire bottle of it I felt justified in my purchase. Seriously, they sell bottles of their malt vinegar for about $2.00 USD. Loved that.
And now I am back home and craving the hell out of it. Oh sure: you can find some folks trying to make it at certain spots in town, and I could do it myself, no problem; decent cod, good beer batter, and some thick fries are all within my means, and yours too. But what I want is for someone to make it right and sell it to me. I want someone to wrap it up in brown paper, just like at Leo Burdock's in Dublin.
It seems like such a no-brainer, especially on a college campus. Last year when I went to Europe, I discovered a place called Chipsy King in Amsterdam and expressed my desire to see something of the sort in C-U, too. Well, this just adds on to the concept. Throw some fat pieces of cod on the menu and sell it for $8 all in. Trust me, it'll work.
So, who amongst you can indulge me, the 74 other British people who read Smile Politely, and the rest of the community who would no doubt turn on to this brilliant and most delicious concept in "take-away" foods across the drink. What say you, C-U? Won't someone do me the favor?
22 comments
Amen, brother.
Ciarán Hinds is misspelled. He was excellent as the creepy pedophile Edward Parker-Jones in Prime Suspect 3.
Good call. I will post another photo of their spelling of a very famous, seminal hair-metal band too. Very good laughs.
greymatter
Yeah, I’ve not had a decent serving of fish and chips since my sojourn across the pond. Food for thought! ;-)
Ohh, let’s have a guessing contest before you give away the answer.
I’ll go with the Christian Hair Metal juggernaut “Stripper.”
Tony Dadd
Right on about CU missing great fish and chips. There’s nothing quite like heading into a chippy during a night of pubbing.
One other thought. It’s been my experience that most places in the US don’t do great British/Irish fish and chips, so it’s not a failing particular to our locale.
my favorite late night grub in ireland was hitting the chippery and having curry chips or slaw chips. those irish can do so much good with the spud.
OH GOD LOOKOUT THERE’S A THUMB IN YOUR FISH
When I lived in England there were several blokes (each known separately as the Fish and Chips Man) who ran chip operations out of a little truck.
They drove around to certain spots, parked the thing, and waited for the crowds. It was like an ice cream truck, but salt-and-vinegarier.
I suspect local ordinances (McColley!) would frown upon such unclean practices, but if someone could swing it, a travelling truck would mos def cut down on overhead.
Also, if done the English way, they wouldn’t even need any refigeration for the beverages.
We do have local lunch trucks, dumbass.
With functioning kitchens? And friers?
Boy, that just doesn’t sound right to me.
Hey Rob - dumbass here.
Since I know you’re real smart - and law trained! - I was pretty sure you wouldn’t call me a dumbass without having done a modicum of research. (Especially since you’ve taken a pretty vocal stance against online name-calling and all.)
So imagine my surprise when I was flipping through the Code of Illinois Rules and found this neat thing about mobile food service preparation.
Can you bring your considerable legal training (and spare time - zing!) to bear and interpret this for me? It’s in Title 77, Chapter 1, Subchapter M, Part 750, Subpart H. (I know, I know - regulations are so crazy! Why don’t they just say what they mean?)
Seriously man, this language is funny! There’s even a “frankfurter exception!” I shit you not! But I’m a bit troubled, because there’s nothing so far about a “frier” exception. It’s like lunch trucks can only have reheated food and stuff - sandwiches, chips and lunchy sort of things. (And even so you’ve got to have hot and cold running water - what!?)
Anyway, can you check this out for me and help me understand how my idea for a fish & chips truck could be made to happen?
Your friend, dumbass.
Well, you can’t get decent jellied eels here either, but I don’t hear anyone complaining about that. I wonder if you can get a passable simulacrum here of UK/Ireland fish and chips at an affordable price. The northeast atlantic cod fisheries are in much better shape than the still collapsed nw atlantic fisheries off Newfoundland, so there’s no abundant “local” source. And I don’t think bullheads will suffice.
What I crave are fried fresh full-bellied clams, but have a tendency to look askance at them here in the deep interior. One really has to travel to get the full experience with some foods. On a tip from a local, we recently went to a small family diner obscurely tucked away in Fairhaven, Mass, (from whence H. Mellville shipped out on the whaler Acushnet in 1841). The tip was that the owner’s family owned a scallop boat, and thus…. Yes, they were the sweetest freshest scallops, cooked and served in their shells, ever to pass our lips. If only something similar could be devised for shelled feed corn.
We did have it here back in the day, at least the fish part. The Deluxe.
Cynthia
oh god yes, I miss the Deluxe….
justus m.
no fish and chips, but plenty of places to get a great fried fish sandwich - Seaboat, Derald’s Truck, etc. Not exactly the same, but close enough, although unfortunately not open late night.
Deluxe — yes. Awesome fish sandwich. Legend’s and a couple other places around town lay claim that they are carrying the torch. Not so. Not even close.
As for fish sandwiches in town, Seaboat is one of the finest things we have to call our own, and while I haven’t tasted it myself, I hear Derald’s is awesome, too. I need to get on one of those for sure!
And forgive me for saying so, but not only is it not exactly the same, it’s not even close to being “close enough.” Delicious? Yes. But not in the same league, not even in the same ballpark.
O’ sadness.
Stewart Pequignot
Might want to check out JT Walker’s in Mahomet on Friday’s. They have a pretty decent cod fish and chips.
It should be pointed out that we in C-U are considerably farther away from the ocean, where cod live, than the good people of Dublin. Does frozen cod work as well?
Cod freezes as well, if not better, than most fish. And with flash-freezing, the fish is practically as good as fresh once thawed.
Plus, I am seriously doubting that Leo Burdock gets their cod right off the boat either.
Bottom line is that this is something that could be done well, and without much trouble. And I think it would sell. Big time.
Seth, if you buy or rent the old Embassy space and reopen it as a pub, then I will figure out how to make the best damn fish and chips this side of the Atlantic and either do it myself or teach your cooks.
Yeah—maybe one day I’ll open up a restaurant that simply serves exactly what’s missing in C-U. A hodge-podge of absent culinary delights.
Right now, I would just like some goddam fish n’ chips.!
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