Radio Maria offers picture perfect brunches
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Ever since brunch became something that the young and trendy took from the old and retired, it's turned into a national phenomenon. In fact, one can pretty well gauge the depth of a city's culture based upon how many options it serves up on late Sunday mornings.
Originally, brunch was designed to cater to the after-church crowd. Since sermons didn't end until well beyond the breakfast hour, and since it wasn't quite lunchtime yet, people decided to turn the meal into a great feast celebrating the end of or the beginning to another week.
Now, it's attracted the attention of the heathen as well. Those who fell into bed fully-clothed at five in the morning also have a place to dine when they awake still half-cocked from a night of drinking and debauchery.
Needless to say, restaurateurs have picked up on it, and in C-U we now have a veritable buffet of brunch options to keep us thoroughly satisfied, week in and week out.
First stop on the Brunch Hunt: Radio Maria, the original trendsetter in downtown Champaign.
Radio Maria has been serving up brunch for as long as I can remember, and that's a good thing, because they've got one of the best values around, especially when you consider the quality of the food. Their menu is deep: you can choose from traditional plates of breakfast food (the Diner Plate) to huge omelettes (with a ton of options) to lunch sandwiches (more on The Cuban below) to specials with Mediterranean flair. Oh, and they have some killer pancakes too.
On this particular occasion, we were seated promptly and served by the best: Evan Smith of the band Neoga Blacksmith. We make it a point to request his services, as he is arguably the best server in the house.
I never go without a cup of coffee, and it's always a treat. Served in ubiquitous white ceramic mugs or cafe-style clear glass cups, this is arguably some of the best in town. Water with lemons is served quickly, and before we know it we are giving up our order.
For the purpose of research, we go glutton on this day and order the house: a Pinta's omelette, which is a four-egg number done up with caramelized onions, roasted red peppers, and goat cheese. It's served with a nice helping of home potatoes and a slice of their delicious homemade beer bread.

Next we order the pancakes. Two for just $4? Insanity. It comes with pieces of plantain tucked in the batter, which makes for a nice addition in texture and flavor. Another nice touch is the cinnamon-laced butter served on the side. The syrup is my only true complaint: it's not pure maple syrup. Adding that option to the menu would go a long way, even if there was a surcharge. Syrup purists would purchase it.

I am a freak for a good Cuban sandwich. If you don't know what it is, let me explain: between slices of grilled crusty bread, roasted pork loin and center cut ham are topped with melted Swiss cheese and layered with thinly cut dill pickles and yellow mustard. Radio Maria has their own take on the Cuban, and while it's certainly not the best I've had (go to Miami or, better yet, Havana), this one does the trick. When the cooks are being mindful, the ham and pork are cut thin the way they're supposed to be. Today, my sandwich was well prepared.

Since we're going all out, why not add an order of beignets into the mix, for good measure and a few more calories? These were perfectly fried — light and crispy but still with enough bounce to give way to a really delicious bite. If you are looking for something like what Cafe du Monde serves in NOLA, then these will do you right. I am a sucker for fried dough, and at $2 a plate, this is a treat and a value all in one.

All in all, Radio Maria does brunch right. I've probably eaten here well over 50 times since I became old enough to make my own culinary decisions. I tend to stick with what works for me now: an omelette with a cup of coffee. When I am feeling more adventurous, I do the Masa Boat Surprise. It's a cornmeal boat served with eggs, chorizo sausage, a variety of beans and salsa, and more. Or, if I'm feeling a little more lunchtime, the blackened catfish never disappoints.
Radio Maria arguably set the trend in brunching downtown, and, if I am any sort of prognosticator, it will continue to lead the way for years to come.
Radio Maria is located at 119 N. Walnut Street in downtown Champaign.
(Photos by Justine Fein-Bursoni)
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If you enjoyed this article, Smile Politely recommends:
+ First review of Black Dog Smoke and Ale House
+ A look at Xinh Xinh Cafe, a new Vietnamese restaurant in downtown Urbana
21 comments
It’s a steal for what you get under $9. I got Lloyd’s omelette last time - smoked trout, avocado, cream cheese - good god.
Mertz
I gotta say… Radio’s brunch has gone in waves… it started out really good… then when they lost their executive chef, the quality diminished considerably… but for the last few months a big bunch of us have been eating there somewhat frequently… and Radio’s brunch is better than it ever has been. I don’t care what anyone orders, if it doesn’t come with bacon, they need to order a side of bacon, because Radio’s new bacon is AMAZING. And the Mexican Coffee has always been my definition of a Sunday morning brunch beverage.
Nice to see that the brunch prices are reasonable. I secretly dread going to Radio Maria when my friends vote on it for our dinner spot; not that the food is bad, but my wallet has taken a serious hit every time I’ve eaten there.
stephen
radio maria has been the jam for years. i made my share of uncle justy’s beer bread. but what about mimosas!?
Karl Bauer
Hey Seth,
Love the writing; keep it up.
I’ll tell you two restaurants worth looking into:
La Gourmandaise on Main St. in Urbana. 1st time I went there, I wasn’t all that impressed, but they really got their act together. Spicy Thai chicken soup is really tasty, and if you like brats, they’ve got the best in town. I normally don’t eat too much meat these days, but my inner Kraut got the better of me! Real friendly owner, too.
Also, look into Mas Amigos on Springfield, in Champaign. I got a vegetarian burrito, with sides of mexican rice and refried beans, for under 5 bucks, including tax. The atmosphere inside is nice, they have a nice flat screen TV they always play sports on, and the owner is super-friendly, as well. The ONLY thing I don’t like about the place is the sign outside; it’s kinda cheap looking, but don’t let that keep you away.
Finally, I don’t know if you write about chains, but The Texas Roadhouse is the most under-rated chain restaurant in town.
Karl Bauer
Forgot to mention; the Mas Amigos meal included a good-sized bag of excellent tortilla chips, with salsa and 2 hot sauces.
Beth Richardson
I also dread it when my friends suggest Radio- and not just because of the prices. The cliquish, downtown, artsy, holier-than-thou attitude that pervades the place really puts me off. Plus the food isn’t always great and the service is atrocious. We were there last week and waited 20 minutes for a table- and it wasn’t even busy. Eventually we ate at the Esquire.
Wow. Dread. Poor things…
I can’t say that the service is atrocious either… the staff has always been super kind to us…
And yes, it can be hit or miss, but jeez, I dread having to go to the doctor or when I get sick or something… not when a friend invites me out to a dinner. Yeesh…
S. Stewart
Last time I ate at Radio the owner had my car towed- while I was eating in his restaurant!! I’ll never go back.
Did they rectify that situation for you? If not, that’s ridiculous.
S. Stewart
Mike… I wouldn’t exactly say “rectify”. When I went back in to complain, the owner offered me a glasss of wine on the house. Hmmm… $85 to get the car back, but - oh joy - a free glass of wine! I never went back to claim it…
Where were you parked?
S. Stewart
In the Radio Maria parking lot, opposite.
Bummer. That doesn’t sound like that owner at all though.
I’ve seen fleets of tow trucks descend on that parking lot many times and I always wondered how they were making sure they weren’t towing the cars of patrons. Looks like some slip through the cracks. A free glass of wine? Wow…
aeb
Sounds exactly like the owner to me. I’ve had exactly the same thing happen to me there, and the response I got from David was beyond rude.
Anon
Yep- that’s the owner. I worked there for years (not anymore, thank God) and I swear the only thing that ever made him happy was having peoples cars towed. Didn’t matter if they had just spent megabucks in his restaurant.
*
i also worked there for a long time. after a particularly busy night, i finished cleaning/closing around 4am to find my car had been towed from the lot. i was shocked when they would not assist in getting it released. in retrospect i am not at all surprised.
Tom Sheehan
On the parking situation at Radio Maria, it depends on the time of day when and who does the towing. If you’re there before 5pm Monday - Friday it’s not David that makes the call, unless you’re parked in his rented spot (sucks when you pay for something and somebody takes it without asking…happens all the time). After those posted times Radio rents the lot, many times people have used it to park yet go elsewhere (once again you pay, somebody takes…). Almost everywhere in downtown Champaign you’re going to get your car towed after 3 am, read the signs! I don’t know everybody’s situations here but I worked at Radio, during lunch times on the days when parking wasn’t availble, the policy was to ask everybody that if they parked there to please move their car so it wouldn’t get towed by the people that own the lot.
About the service I agree the Evan is the bomb, the rest hit or miss, and I miss the quirky, artsy, downtown cliquish servers. It seems these days the servers are shipped in from the North Prospect cattle barn chain restaurants and not nearly as friendly.
Still, i’ve never been disappointed in the meals, and price seem reasonable for what you order.
J. Keller
Sucks having your car towed, dude.
june f.
Just saw this thread. I’ve just gotta say, last time I ate at Radio the service was bad, the food was worse, an I spent all night throwin up. You could not pay me enough to go back.
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Pamela - Are the roasteries in Seattle as clean as CSR? It always disturbs me a little that it is so clean in there.